Easter in Slovakia; or, why I'm happy to be an expatriate for once

pondelok, apríla 02, 2018


You know, living away from home has never been easy for me. I get homesick just looking at the Skype icon on my desktop, frequently browse through old photos of my dog, and the very thought of not seeing my family at Christmas physically hurts. Yet, I’m always glad not to be in Slovakia during Easter.

As a kid, the connection between Easter and Christianity took a long time to register for me. There were other traditions, more tightly bound to the period. Traditions that I now despise, but have once enjoyed. Because that’s what you’re meant to do.

As a girl, Easter in Slovakia has always been hard. As a woman, even harder. See, if my mum was to prepare for it the way tradition dictates (and, thank god, she has stopped doing it years ago), her Easter would go something like this: She would have to clean the flat, to the tiniest nook and cranny, to wash off the winter blues. She would have to bake, and cook, and buy at least five different kinds of alcohol, so that would find something that they like. She would have to decorate the flat, and make herself pretty, just to play the perfect hostess. And then she would wait until the men came and messed it all up.

It's not just that they would come in groups, stuffing themselves with the food, drinking shot after shot of vodka and borovička. It’s not just that they probably wouldn’t even notice that the flat has been cleaned, mainly for their visit, or that there were eggs strewn around to make it look nice. Oh, no. They would come with willow whips and egg-shaped plastic bottles, filled with water. They would lash my mum, singing an old folk song, or reciting a poem, to make sure she would stay beautiful and healthy in the upcoming year. They would spray water on her, to keep her from wilting. The less adventurous ones would take out ancient perfumes, ones that they’d otherwise keep hidden away because they stink so bad, and make my mum the target. Then she would thank them, and give them chocolate or money for all that good work. Or maybe both. Because that’s what you’re meant to do.

Now, I can see where the traditions came from. I agree that spring, and women, should be celebrated celebrate. Heck, we should all be celebrated, for making it to spring in the first place. I can even admit that, as a kid, I enjoyed running away from the water bottles, and I would sing along to my own whipping. But, looking at the traditions now, I’m horrified. How are these still upheld in the 21st century?

People love to say that it’s all symbolic. The whipping is gentle. The water is harmless. Girls enjoy the game, don’t you see? But underneath those symbolic traditions? You have men, often in large troops, going from house to house, feasting themselves, getting progressively drunker, and getting paid for… for lashing girls? For throwing them in the bathtub, or spilling a cup of cold water down their back? For spraying them with ten different kinds of colognes, so that they have to go and take multiple showers immediately after the processions are over?

And it’s not just men, it’s the boys, too. I remember seeing one, not even three years old, with a whip three times his size. His parents spurred him on as he whipped his sister, just a little older. She giggled at his ministrations, then turned around and have him a chocolate egg. Don’t you think that’s a horrible image in this day and age?

You can make fun of me, claim that I’m too touchy, or a stupid feminist, or that I read too much into it. You can say that the girls actually love it, that they love comparing the numbers of boys that have whipped them, that it’s a compliment and a blessing. You can even try for that stupid excuse, that girls can now do it, too. But I ask you, please, to think before you do all that. Look at these traditions, with a clear mind, and consider what are we teaching our children. What is the point of upholding these traditions? Celebrating spring, and nature, and our health? Or celebrating old-fashioned patriarchal mores that we could easily do without?

At work today, I have asked multiple people how they celebrate Easter. An uncertain shrug seemed to be the consensus. Some of them buy each other chocolates, some go on a holiday, most of them just take it as an excuse to spend some time with their families. Apparently, you can do that, and enjoy yourselves, even without whipping and watering each other. And I love that, and wish I could do it, too.

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